03 December 2023 , 17:46
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Nearly all of Dubai’s infrastructure could be underwater by 2100. From a humble fishing village, the city is now one of the most modern cities in the world, home to the Palm Jumeirah and the Burj Al Arab.
But you won’t see any signs of its vulnerability at Cop28, the UN’s climate summit being held there. Along with the city’s flashy skyscrapers, fake canals and manicured islands, the Expo City venue is glitzy and vast.
Over the past few days I’ve joined delegates, diplomats and activists from more than 180 countries. The painful two hours of queuing in 28C heat has been made more bearable by admiring the colourful traditional dress of the countries and indigenous territories represented. Worst dressed? Obviously the media.
Wait in line for a coffee (more about that later) and you’ll hear an array of languages and dialects. Unlike the first days of the disorganised Cop27 in Egypt, there is actually food, and mostly vegetarian too, a nod to the impact meat has on the climate. But it is not cheap. A coffee is £4.70 forcing many to come prepared with packed lunches and Thermos flasks.
Harassment from men was rife in Egypt but can be avoided in Dubai by riding in the female-only carriages on the Metro. While it is better organised than many previous Cops, it is strangely quiet. Cop26 in Glasgow in 2021 was full of protesters, placards and demands for action.
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It’s hardly surprising when political parties are banned across all seven Emirates, and dissent is stifled, with many prominent human rights defenders jailed or living in exile. Demonstrations are effectively illegal and criticising the government is a criminal offence.
The UN signed a host agreement with the UAE that “there will be space available for climate activists to assemble peacefully and make their voices heard”. So far I’ve only seen a handful.
Last year’s Cop27 was overshadowed by claims of a potential security risk around the official app launched by the Egyptian Presidency. Unfortunately, this year is no different with Climate Action Against Disinformation warning this year’s app poses a credible security risk.
The late night discussions that will take place until December 12 are vital in ensuring countries commit to emission reductions to put the 1.5C target back on the table.
But equally important to this event is the right to protest and express views freely. If the UAE wants to have a legacy Cop, they will ensure these voices are not silenced.